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"I grew up in the Bellaire-West U-Rice area, and Albert Candelari was my grandfather," says Michael May, the owner and founder of Candelari's Pizzeria (2617 W. Holcombe, 713-662-2825). "We were looking for somewhere close by to move the original location, which used to be on Bissonnet. We needed good parking...

Alternating square slices of provolone and sottaceti, an Italian deli loaf that reminds me of mortadella, are dealt across a bed of romaine. Piles of green and black crushed olives, cucumbers, red-onion slivers, sliced mushrooms and marinated artichoke hearts surround the cheese and cold cuts on an old ivory dinner...