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Meat and Potatoes

Frank's Chop House stands firmly in the middle of the road.

By Robb Walsh
Mar 17, 2010

The chicken-fried steak at Frank's Chop House (3736 Westheimer, 713-572-8600) is house-breaded and expertly fried to order so that the tenderized meat arrives covered with a crunchy blanket of golden batter. I got the cream gravy on the side. I like to cut off pieces of the battered steak and...
Looking for a Bull Market

Killen's Steakhouse in suburban Pearland is probably best during boom times.

By Robb Walsh
Nov 4, 2009

Our USDA Prime, dry-aged, bone-in strip was bright red and rare along the bone, and medium-well toward the thinner edge. It averaged out to the medium-rare we requested. The variance in doneness common in a bone-in cut worked out perfectly. Two of us were splitting the steak, and I like...
Burger Chic

The RDG Burger at RDG + Bar Annie

By Paul Galvani
Sep 16, 2009

There are two ways to enjoy the RDG Burger at RDG + Bar Annie (1800 Post Oak, 713-840-1111): alone ($15) or as part of a lunch special ($19). Do yourself a favor and go for the special, which you can get with Robert Del Grande's incredible wild mushroom soup and...
The Valentine's Day Minefield at Central Market

By Robb Walsh
Feb 11, 2009

The USDA Prime tenderloin was perfectly grilled and slathered in garlicky chimichurri, just the way my significant other likes it. The herbed shrimp on the side turned it into a "surf and turf" combo. Sides were a perfect round dome of boursin potato soufflé and slightly chewy grilled asparagus. We...
Steak Night: Under the Volcano

By Robb Walsh
Sep 17, 2008

Last week, in my review of Dharma Cafe, I wrote that it was my dharma to eat steak. This week, I further fulfilled my carnivorous destiny by exploring the Houston phenomenon called "steak night." It's odd that I have missed out on this tradition for so long. My interest was...
T-Bone Tom's Steakhouse Restaurant

Visit T-Bone Tom's and help keep Kemah weird

By Robb Walsh
Jul 5, 2007

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Tom's Backyard hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily (limited late-night menu).
Happy hour shrimp cocktail: $1
Chicken-fried steak: $10
Rib eye: $20
Hamburger (1/2 lb): $5.99
Sausage plate: $7.99
Where Carnitas Meet Foie Gras

Cultures collide at Washington and Asbury, with wonderfully tasty results

By Robb Walsh
Mar 16, 2006

The fajitas plate lunch at Matamoros Meat Market No. 4 turned out to be a stew with small chunks of fajita beef and half-circles of sausage in it. The plate came with three handmade flour tortillas and two sides. But the lady behind the cafeteria line told me in Spanish...
Bling-Bling Bordeaux

At Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, flashing your wad is the whole point

By Robb Walsh
Dec 22, 2005

The chef's counter at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse is the best seat in the house, unless you're trying to get romantic. When the hostess told my brother Gordon and me that we could either sit at the counter or wait an hour for a table, we jumped on a pair of...
Burnt Offerings from the USDA

When will the federal agency tell us it's safe to eat medium-rare burgers again?

By Robb Walsh
Aug 25, 2005

The fact that contestants in Uncle Fletch's Hamburger Cook-off felt free to ignore the USDA's guidelines, and that the contest was willing to accept the liability, shows how low confidence in the USDA's credibility has fallen. The USDA says that hamburgers are unsafe to eat unless they're cooked to an...
Burnt Offerings from the USDA

When will the federal agency tell us it's safe to eat medium-rare burgers again?

By Robb Walsh
Aug 25, 2005

The fact that contestants in Uncle Fletch's Hamburger Cook-off felt free to ignore the USDA's guidelines, and that the contest was willing to accept the liability, shows how low confidence in the USDA's credibility has fallen. The USDA says that hamburgers are unsafe to eat unless they're cooked to an...
Past Its Prime

Taste of Texas Steakhouse takes you on a nostalgia trip to the salad bar.

By Robb Walsh
Aug 11, 2005

The cramped salad bar at Taste of Texas featured a bin of chopped iceberg lettuce accented with colorful streaks of sliced red cabbage. Among the toppings were broccoli and cauliflower florets, along with black olives from a can, chopped eggs, pickled beets and a shredded-carrot-and-raisin salad. When we returned to...
Banana Breakfast

Central American early-bird specials

By Robb Walsh
Feb 10, 2005

Sweet, gooey, piping-hot fried plantains are an ideal breakfast food. Especially the way they serve them in Central American restaurants: with warm, creamy refried beans and cold sour cream on the side for dipping. My kids and I used to order the plátanos fritos for breakfast all the time at...
Marvelous Meat

Chez Nous

By Paul Galvani
Oct 14, 2004

The chateaubriand ($62) at Chez Nous (217 South Avenue G, Humble, 281-446-6717) is probably the best piece of meat in town. It's a USDA Prime, dry-aged, large-enough-for-two filet of beef, so tender that no knife is required. Because the meat's so thick, it's a difficult cut to cook correctly, but...
Dry-Aged Discrimination

What grade of beef are the steaks at The Capital Grille?

By Robb Walsh
Jun 10, 2004

Flames are shooting out of the high-tech stainless-steel broiler at The Capital Grille on Westheimer. And thanks to the open design of the restaurant's kitchen, I get to watch the fire without leaving my comfortable chair at a corner table in the adjoining dining room. Like the original Capital Grille...
Bring On the Bovine

Beef-mad Houstonians keep eating steaks

By Robb Walsh
Jan 8, 2004

In December 23, a dairy cow at a Washington State slaughter facility tested positive for bovine spongiform encephalopathy, or mad cow disease, the first such occurrence in the United States. U.S. officials now say evidence suggests that the infected cow was born in Canada in 1997, before the enactment of...
Make Mine Moo

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar

By Marene Gustin
Oct 23, 2003

If you went to Houston's and asked for a black-and-blue steak, you'd surely be met with a blank stare. But Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar (2405 West Alabama, 713-520-8840) has chefs who know there's more to steak than rare, medium and well done. Their juicy, succulent steaks may not...
Dinner and Darts

The Rivendell Bar & Grille

By Robb Walsh
Mar 20, 2003

When we first enter The Rivendell Bar & Grille, we walk by two women who are talking intently on a big sofa by the front door. One has her legs curled up comfortably underneath her, and they're both working on pints of beer. In the back, near a pool table,...
Mystery Meat

Maverick's motto may be "Supper + Whiskey," but the restaurant doesn't always deliver on both counts

By Robb Walsh
Dec 5, 2002

The 28-ounce T-bone at Maverick Supper + Whiskey comes with a smear of red chile-flavored butter on top. That's it. No potatoes, no vegetables, not even a sprig of parsley. The oversize steak sits there on its large white plate looking naked and lonely. It costs $36. You want mashed...
American Kobe

Lynn's Steakhouse proves a few restaurants still serve up USDA Prime

By Robb Walsh
Oct 4, 2001

The baseball-sized filet mignon is so streaked with fat, it looks like it's been painted with white stripes. It sits in the middle of the platter, surrounded by a New York strip, a rib eye and a couple of nice-looking chops. Lynn's Steakhouse is so proud of their meat, they...
Aging with Grace (and Science)

American steaks: second of a three-part series

By Robb Walsh
Aug 30, 2001

The drab industrial decor at Greenbriar Chophouse blends in perfectly with its office-building location next door to Kinko's, but it doesn't inspire much confidence in the steaks. Neither do the waiter's answers to my questions. "Are the steaks USDA Prime?" I ask. "Yes, they are all prime steaks, the very...
A Matter of Fat

The U.S. beef industry's lower standards have led to an increase in chop houses

By Robb Walsh
Aug 2, 2001

American steaks: First of a three-part series Our waiter is an older man in a white waiter's jacket, a black tie and a long white apron. He recommends the USDA Prime New York strip, a specialty of Palm restaurant on Westheimer. We get one strip and one porterhouse, both medium...
Strange Fruit

People pay lots more for organic produce, but are they getting their money's worth?

By George Alexander
Sep 21, 2000

Until a few years ago, Houston may have possessed the finest supermarket in the entire United States of America, the Jamail's on Kirby Drive. The public it sought to serve was a minority of the city's population -- the minority that associates the word "coupon" with the little pieces of...

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