Bar Beat

Late Night: Bisou

All it takes is one.
Photo by Kate McLean
All it takes is one.
Pull the “last minute LBD” from the trunk of the car, dust the scuff from the pumps next to it, paint on that lip gloss, girl—it’s time for a treat. Slip into those kind-of-too-tight pants, find the other shoe to the tan pair of oh, no where is it, apply half a spritz of Sauvage, boy—how about a snack? A smile seasoned on after a short walk through the River Oaks District past Hermès, Stella McCartney, Brunello Cucinelli, and with a final push through the heavy golden door of Bisou has anyone feeling totally DTF. Down To eat Foie.

Quick, think of all the sexiest foods; foie gras, oysters, bone marrow, pork belly, lobster, caviar, tomahawk ribeye, Wagyu beef, hamachi, truffles, sushi. At Bisou they live together, on one menu, ready to be devoured.

Hauntingly floral, the malty melon sweetness of Grey Goose Le Melon served simply on the rocks isn’t a bad way to start. Half way through be sure to detonate a few lime wedges. Ah. C’est bon, c’est bon. By the bottle Le Melon runs $300, by the magnum $550, just in case anyone wants to throw me a birthday party.

The Raw, Crudo & Barely Touched section of the menu combines a little bit of just that— tartare, ceviche, carpaccio, sushi rolls. For a few bites, Nigiri can be ordered by the piece. Had something larger in mind? The Le Royal seafood platter is the big boy move as it includes: a whole lobster, two dozen east coast/gulf coast oysters, shrimp cocktail, crab claws, mussels, flounder ceviche, and tuna tartare for $190. Le Prestige ($120) and Le Mareyeur ($65) are a few smaller portioned alternatives.

The Lobster Maki is a six-piece pinwheel roll made with tempura lobster and garnished with fine herbs and a smoky aioli. Finish it off with a squeeze of roasted lemon, it’s asking for it. $24.

Scanning the iPad wine list to find—what’s this—Orin Swift by the glass. That’s fun, for $22, a six ounce pour of “8 years in the desert” 2017 by the iconic winemaker, Dave Phinney. As far as American winemaking is concerned, Syrah has never been in better hands.

In a world where a lot of seared foie is under seasoned and overcooked, Bisou nails it with a crisp sear, perfect center, and finished off with a light sprinkle of Maldon sea salt.  And it just so happens to be served on top of the best French dessert of all time—Apple Tarte Tatin. A plump caramelized apple on top of crisp, golden brown pastry layers brings the sweet to balance all that richness.  On a cold, cold day, this dish feels exactly like pulling a down comforter over your head and relishing in it's warmth. For $21, foie snacks make the best snacks.

Sleek marble, cool to the touch, velvet seating and a playlist to keep the blood pumping— once arrived at Bisou, they make it very hard to leave.

And hey, hey, hey—I spy Louis XIII. Two bottles on hand, just in case a guest wants to go ahead and buy one. You never know.

Bisou Continental Cuisine
4444 Westheimer
Bisou is open until midnight Wednesday through Saturday.

click to enlarge Head to Bisous for a late night with all the finer things. - PHOTO BY KATE MCLEAN
Head to Bisous for a late night with all the finer things.
Photo by Kate McLean