Landing the Big One

Carol Rust August 31, 2000 4:00AM

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Even those who have eaten shrimp on the east coast of the Yucatan might be surprised by the mega-size crustaceans at the cavernous, colorful Lucinda's [2415 Dunstan, (713)394-7280]. At first glance, the camarones al cilantro ($17.95) look too pretty to eat: Dark bronzed shrimp, along with deep green strands of cilantro, chunks of browned garlic and hand-cut bits of bacon, circle a mound of white rice. But after the first heavenly bite, you'll forget all about aesthetics. The ingredients have been gently sautéed in sherry with a dash of salt and paprika, a taste combination that's hard to forget. It's easy to see why this relatively new kid on the restaurant block is usually packed at lunch and dinner.