Hot Plate

Margaret L.Briggs January 7, 1999 4:00AM

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"Albaloo polo" sounds like one of Aladdin's incantations, but at Kolbeh Persian Restaurant (5700 Hillcroft, 785-1358) the command will summon a magical rice dish instead of a bottled genie. Toothsome white basmati rice is topped with gemlike "sour" black cherries which, despite the name, are slightly sweet; the rice is thickly studded with talismanic slivers of pistachios and almonds. Or intone "adas polo" to invoke rice laced with lentils, raisins and plump, sticky dates, sparked with torshi, a snappy cold pickle-pepper relish served on the side. Either fantastical dish can accompany an entree or be called up individually for only $4.00.