Paper, Plastic or Chocolate

Marene Gustin September 30, 2004 4:00AM

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You may not think of seafood restaurants when you think chocolate decadence, but never mind. McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant (1151 Uptown Park Boulevard, 713-840-7900) isn't about just oysters on the half shell, big slabs of mahimahi and Atlantic salmon. It's also, yes, about chocolate. The national chain puts a sweet twist on a popular dessert with its "bag o' chocolate" ($9.95), a plate-sized bag made of dark chocolate stuffed with Godiva white chocolate mousse. Whipped cream and fresh blackberries, strawberries and raspberries pile in on top and add a fresh, fruity flavor to the layers of chocolate. This is a dessert to be shared by the whole table (don't even ask about calories), and it pairs well with, say, a nice bubbly Chandon Brut Classic from California. And even if it's not on the menu when you visit, ask, and you still might get your slice of chocolate heaven.