Wellington Wins

Marene Gustin December 16, 2004 4:00AM

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At last fall has arrived, and appetites have turned to heartier, holiday-style fare. For a real old-time feast, we suggest that favorite of former president Nixon, beef Wellington. At The Brownstone (2736 Virginia, 713-520-5666), the beef Wellington ($32) is served up in grand style, but it isn't for the diet-conscious: Its Black Angus tenderloin is seared in butter, smothered in pâté de foie gras (at least half an ounce) and a mushroom-and-brandy mixture, wrapped into a puff-pastry shell and brushed with egg wash for a crispy crust. Served with béarnaise and marchand de vin sauce, this noble British meal has enough of a kick on its own, but for extra indulgence, pair it with a French wine. We doubt Napoleon himself would be able to resist the dish, even though it's named for the man who defeated him at Waterloo.