Cocktail Party

Christie Taylor November 14, 2002 4:00AM

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After trying Mambo Seafood's (6697 Hillcroft, 713-541-3666) cóctel de camarones ($5.95 and $9.95), you'll never be satisfied with the stuffy old shrimp cocktails where a few lone crustaceans teeter over an ice-filled glass, waiting to be eaten one at a time. In Mambo's cocktail, the sizable shrimp are tossed around in a zesty, fresh tomato sauce with bits of onion and avocado slices, then packed together in a glass like it's a dance club on Saturday night. The smaller cocktail is served in ice-cream sundae glass, the larger one in a chilled beer schooner. The whole thing is topped off with a green olive and served with a long-handled spoon.