Olive Pit

Paul Galvani May 24, 2001 4:00AM

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There's nothing drab about the olive bar ($6.99 per pound) at Whole Foods Market (2955 Kirby Drive, 713-520-1937), since these oily little fruits come in a panoply of colors (green, purple and black), not to mention a variety of sizes (small to giant), textures (shriveled to smooth), shapes (round, oval and pointy) and countries of origin (France, Greece and Spain). With exotic names like arbequinas, picholines, kalamatas and niçoises, they sit there seducing you to sample them. The stuffed olives are our favorites, not just the traditional pimiento and jalapeño versions but also the citrus and garlic ones. The best two, however, are not found on the bar, but in the nearby refrigerator: the blue cheese- and feta-stuffed giants. The feta version is like eating a Greek salad in one mouthful, while the blue cheese olive marries two delicious flavors in one decadent, compact package.