Bird Call

Carol Rust August 30, 2001 4:00AM

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Spanish Flower Mexican Restaurant (4701 North Main, 713-869-1706) may have made its reputation with its fresh homemade flour tortillas, but you can't live by unleavened bread alone (though, God knows, we'd like to try). Meat lovers should flock to the grilled quail here. Two incredibly meaty birds are dusted with spice then grilled simply. Hey, why mess up a good thing? Served on the bone to lock in the taste, the quail are tender and juicy -- bursting with rich, gamy flavor. Of course, at more "elegant" restaurants around town, quail of this quality is generally served with more garnish, more attitude and more all-around fanfare. But tell us, wouldn't you rather pay $9.25 at Spanish Flower and skip the grilled veggies?