Road Warrior

Melanie Knight October 18, 2001 4:00AM

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In Bellaire's battle of the burger, victory may be within the grasp of the rebellious Roadster Grill (5210 Bissonnet, 713-432-1800). Boldly opening its drag strip-themed spot on the same plot of land as the revered Bellaire Broiler Burger, the young Roadster peels out with old-fashioned griddle-fried burgers that could leave its neighbor in the dust. Our favorite is the simple Roadster with cheese ($3.25), a third-pound, hand-formed Angus chuck patty served on a buttered bun that tastes homemade. Daredevils may want to sample the Texas Road Kill, with chili and cheese, or the Texas Burn Out, with queso, chipotle sauce and jalapeños. Put out the fire with a classic malt. As the race for best burger in Bellaire drags on, we spectators are just happy to have two popular pit stops.