Two-Handed Job

Paul Galvani April 20, 2006 4:00AM

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The melted mozzarella alone just can't hold together the thin slices of spicy meat and caramelized onion in the roast pork loin sandwich ($8.95) at Ruggles Cafe Bakery (2365 Rice Boulevard, 713-520-6662). No matter how you eat it, this is a sloppy meal; once you've grasped the sandwich with both hands, you won't dare put it down. Its spiciness comes not from the herbed focaccia but from the chipotle mayonnaise; the sweetness comes from the addition of mango. Mess or no mess, this two-handed sandwich disappears quickly, leaving you wanting more.