Three-course Lunch

Paul Galvani August 11, 2005 4:00AM

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When you order the oyakodon rice bowl ($7) at Daiji's Izakaya Japanese Tapas Bar (1201 Caroline, 713-651-3030), you also get a bowl of soul-warming miso soup and a simple salad drizzled with an intriguing ginger-citrus dressing. The rice bowl arrives with a smaller bowl inverted on the top -- acting as a sort of tapa, or cover -- and on top of that sits a cone-shaped container of red pepper. Broth-infused rice and Japanese radishes layer the bottom of the bowl; the next layer is a fried egg, and the next, cubes of chicken. The flavor combination is different with every bite.