Mosquito Bite

Melanie Knight June 14, 2001 4:00AM

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Though the cool, contemporary decor of Mosquito Café (628 14th Street, Galveston, 409-763-1010) is completely nonthreatening, its competitors may think this eclectic restaurant is out for blood with one of its newest items. The simply named salmon club ($9.95) is actually quite complex, a trademark concoction that substitutes the standard deep-fried ingredients of most Galveston dishes with more inventive ones. A tender salmon fillet is marinated, grilled and topped with hickory-smoked bacon and balsamic-soaked red onions. It also bulges with those trendy leafy greens, but it's the chipotle mayo that gives this sandwich its bite. It makes you feel like you're dining in San Francisco or New Orleans or someplace other than a tourist town better known for fried catfish and hush puppies.