Liver Lover

Paul Galvani March 14, 2002 4:00AM

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It's not easy finding liver and onions on restaurant menus anymore. It's a generational problem: Older folks may find themselves almost teary-eyed as they reminisce about growing up on the stuff, but young whippersnappers wouldn't eat it if it were the last thing on earth. Comfort food or uncomfortable food; you love it or you hate it. There's simply no in between. Unfortunately, most restaurants tend to think like advertisers, appealing to the 18-to-49 demographic. But the Pig Stand (2412 Washington Avenue, 713-864-4041), a Houston institution since 1921, is different. Their Monday special is a generous slice of beef liver -- fried, topped with grilled onions, smothered with thick brown gravy and served with three homemade veggies ($4.99). It's an unashamedly old-fashioned dish served in an old-fashioned way with no frills. Love it or leave it.