Bistecca Houston

Run, don’t walk, for Bistecca’s tremendous $24 prix fixe lunch special. It is only offered on Fridays, and while it is subject to change, rest assured it is a terrific value. A typical progression includes a small salad, full-sized entree featuring meat, a vegetable and a starch and ends with a dessert sampler. Don’t be surprised is this becomes part of the weekly routine. Dinner at Bistecca, though, is a much more iffy, expensive proposition. Entrées soar. Unfortunately, we’re referring to the prices, not the flavors. A $49, two-bone venison chop seemed rather small for the price. A $36 duck breast dish was soggy and limp. On the flip side, the $18 beef tartare prepared table side is a lot of fun. The server will mix flavorful ingredients, such as capers, fluffy grated egg and Worcestershire, into the beef and then give the diner who ordered it a taste. At that point, the diner can steer, asking for more of one ingredient or the other to be added. Even if there’s a dish that goes awry at Bistecca, there is no arguing that the service is exemplary. The staff is observant, helpful and quite congenial. Even if you aren’t impressed with the food on the first visit, you might very well give it another go just to see the staff again.


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