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Photo by Chuck Cook

Bollo Woodfired Pizza

Photo by Chuck Cook
Bollo is a casual neighborhood spot churning out occasionally great, occasionally greatly disappointing Neapolitan pizzas. A bit of a novelty among Neapolitan specialists, Bollo also offers a full menu comprising small plates, salads and entrées. Unfortunately, most of these fail to deliver. With its assured sear and well-executed, wine-enriched sauce, the pork chop is a surprise standout among mostly lackluster non-pizza offerings. When the pies fare well, they fare quite well indeed, even if some suffer from overthought and overwrought combinations of toppings. Stick with the simpler pies, and you’ve got a good shot at almost great pizza. Like the pies, the service can be a bit spotty.

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