This venerable two-story house features the hearty fare you would find in New York's Little Italy. There's nothing imaginative about these Sicilian-styled dishes, but they're flawlessly executed with premier ingredients. The veal is remarkably tender and succulent, and it's reasonably priced. There are good pastas and calamari and Italian wines by the glass, and for dessert, a superlative tiramisu. An accomplished guitar player provides entertainment on Saturday nights.
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It's almost a pity that one has to enjoy a whole meal at Buon Appetito (2231 West Holcombe, 713-665-4601) before getting to taste the house specialty, the torta 'o rum ($4.50). Italians love to add liqueur to almost anything they co...
Thursday, October 12, 2000 at 4 a.m. by Robb Walsh
Alternating square slices of provolone and sottaceti, an Italian deli loaf that reminds me of mortadella, are dealt across a bed of romaine. Piles of green and black crushed olives, cucumbers, red-onion slivers, sliced mushrooms and...