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Casa De Leon

This is a great place for a late, late-night Mexican feast. Located in a run-down strip center on the west side of town, Casa De Leon doesn't have much atmosphere but makes up for it with the food. The three salsas served with chips are incendiary, even for Houston tastes. Breakfast includes great chilaquiles (scrambled eggs with tortilla strips), machacado (scrambled eggs with dried beef) and a hangover-curing menudo. The grilled whole perch is superb, as are the carne guisada and the alambres (kebabs) with beef, shrimp and bacon. Among the best deals are the meats to go, such as barbacoa or cabrito, which can be purchased by the pound.

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