Jeff Balke

El Rey Taqueria

Jeff Balke
El Rey is a terrific Cuban/Mexican restaurant masquerading as a fast-food joint. Sure, you eat with plastic utensils on blue plastic cafeteria trays. The food does arrivs very fast, but this is anything but fast food. This stuff has soul and flavor -- lots of flavor. A huge old-fashioned rotisserie roasts beautiful, golden-skinned chickens that turn up in soups, sandwiches, tacos and burritos -- and that also stand alone quite well, thank you. Good accompaniments, too: nicely flavored Mexican rice with good-sized chunks of carrot and deeply-spiced refried beans.

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