It would be difficult for even the most refined carnivore to refrain from licking his chops when first laying eyes on this South Brazilian restaurant. Scurrying from table to table are seemingly dozens of waiters in gaucho garb with flashing knives and long skewers of meat. Lunch and dinner are on a flat-rate-per-person basis, which includes all the meat you can eat, and a colorful, panoramic salad bar. All the meat is first-rate. Waiters advise you to pace yourself. "Relax," they say. But how can anyone relax when everything about this place says "dive in"?