It’s not quite accurate to call Fratellini Ristorante Italiano a hidden gem. It’s more of a time capsule that honors old-school New York Italian traditions in the hearty, traditional cuisine that has never been garnished with tweezers. Its blunt refusal to seduce jaded diners with terms like “farm-to-table” and “local” is part of its charm. What diners will get here is a satisfying, meaty lasagna nearly hidden under broiled Mozzarella and shot through with ricotta brought in from New York. Looking for a show? Ask for the bacon and spinach salad prepared tableside, but be prepared to rescue the tender leaves from an overenthusiastic bath of balsamic dressing. The tiramisu, generously padded through with whole, espresso-laden ladyfingers and cream is not to be missed.