Chef and owner Hoi Fung, a Hong Kong transplant, is from a family of serious chefs. Fung's Kitchen's menu lists 400-plus Chinese items, including seafood selections from six aquariums in the front of the room of the Southwest side establishment. The menu is sophisticated, as are the customers. A mundane-sounding dish like scallops with garlic turns out to be made from live scallops, quick-steamed and served in their shells. The city's most interesting dim sum is served here on the weekends. You can also order dim sum from a more limited menu on weekdays. (Dim sum is served from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.)