Housed in a tiny converted house on 19th Street in the Heights, Gatlin's is a Houston Proud kind of place. Owner Greg Gatlin is a graduate of St. Thomas High School, and he played football at Rice University. Now he mans the pits at Gatlin's, turning out incredible barbecue with gracious flair. The smoky brisket exudes flavor, gently pulling apart with the prodding of a plastic fork. It is meaty and moist, with a gorgeous smoke ring and obvious fat cap. But the ribs...Lord, the ribs. A lightly charred outside encases a tender, meaty interior. Sausage, too, is praiseworthy. Coleslaw and beans are standard fare, but the dirty rice is outstanding.