Gumbo Jeaux’s

Gumbo Jeaux’s on Durham is the second location of the tiny, Houston­grown chain. The first, located near George Bush Intercontinental Airport, is “legendary among workers in the area south of IAH” (at least according to one fan’s description). The new location brings that same food closer to the center of town while brightening up a rather nondescript city block. If a dish is traditionally spicy, Gumbo Jeaux’s serves it that way unapologetically. Fried fish and butterflied shrimp dishes are always good bets, as are the po­boys. Rather than being served on stubby French baguettes, they’re served on hoagie buns, and while that may offend purists, the toasty rolls with a dark sear on top certainly didn’t offend us. Gumbo Jeaux’s is very casual, BYOB and, considering the fresh fish and shrimp it serves, a remarkable value, with no entrée costing more than $10.99.

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