Harwood Grill took over the space that used to house 60 Degrees Mastercrafted. The place is mostly the same — sparsely elegant — and perhaps that was a mistake, for the countrycafestyle menu seems really out of place for this setting. The restaurant specializes in Akaushi beef and sometimes it is used to grand effect. For example, the skirt used for the chicken-fried steak is the right balance between slightly fibrous and tender. The batter coating is simply perfect, too, beautiful fried pleats ranging from pale yellow to golden brown. Brown gravy is served alongside, which may lose chickenfried steak purists, and the texture of the mashed potatoes can be hitormiss. Despite delights like the solid CFS and the Red Hot Whisky wings (in a sauce curiously reminiscent of Frank’s RedHot), Harwood Grill’s biggest enemy comes from within — specifically, the kitchen. Cooking and seasoning flaws plague several of the dishes, from weirdly foamy lobster bisque with tough, overcooked chunks of lobster tail to steaks that come with a layer of salt that didn’t even have a chance to dissolve. There’s potential for success here if the kitchen can get its act together and if the restaurant actually hires a real bartender instead of relying on servers with insufficient training to make good cocktails.
Full bar and outdoor seating available. Valet and lot parking available. Casual attire. $$ - $$$$
This restaurant is the latest addition to the Upper Kirby area, in the space formerly located by 60 Degrees Mastercrafted. This steakhouse has its own herd of Akaushi cattle out near Columbus in Harwood, Texas.