KA Sushi in The Heights is defined by refusing to be defined. Rather than being a traditional Japanese restaurant that embraces perfection, it instead straddles the line between delectable sushi restaurant and fun izakaya. The spirits list, with an extensive selection of Japanese whisky, Scotch, cognac and much more, rivals Houston’s better bars. That does not, though, mean the food isn’t good. KA Sushi hits the mark most of the time and that is a little incredible, considering how extensive the menu is. The best introduction to that menu is by way of happy hour, when about 20 menu items are offered at prices ranging from $3 to $10. Among the best bites: the halved, roasted and skewered chicken hearts, the inordinately fun vegetable tempura and the odd-sounding chocolate shrimp. These are fried until even the tails are shatteringly crispy, then the natural sweetness of the shrimp is amplified with a snowy grating of white chocolate. Sushi and sashimi are of the modern style, with most selections garnished or accented with an extra ingredient or two to add flavor and interest. Therefore, suzuki, or sea bass, might arrive accented with just a touch of dashi-infused soy and thin, punchy, candied jalapeño slices on top. Japanese horse mackerel is brightened with lime zest and smoked soy sauce, and so on. KA Sushi is fun, not uptight, and sure to have something to please even the pickiest diner.