It wasn’t an overnight change, but it is as if a French fairy godmother waved her magic wand over Table On Post Oak and transmuted it into something that Houston actually needed: La Table. There are two main parts: Château, the fine-dining room upstairs, and Marché, the more casual area downstairs. People who steer clear of French restaurants thinking they are expensive and stingy and have judgmental service need to get to La Table, anyway. Portions are generous, and service — especially upstairs at Château — is among the very best in Houston. Upstairs, go for one of the tableside items, like the stunning rack of lamb or the gorgeous whole chicken presentation. Downstairs at Marché, go for the $30 three-course prix fixe. Even a salad there — like the kale and quinoa bowl — can be so beautiful and well-made as to be interesting and indulgent.