The food at this Tex-Mex time capsule in Richmond seems indistinguishable from the fare at dozens of more conveniently located Mexican joints -- until you dig into the old-fashioned cheese enchiladas. While you work away on the rolled tortillas, the viscous yellow cheese sauce oozes into the dark brown chili gravy, creating a delicious masterpiece of yellow and brown swirls. The goop that's left on the plate after the enchiladas are gone may be the most significant Tex-Mex contribution to world cuisine. And nobody's cheese-enchilada residue holds a candle to Larry's.
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