This Cuban cafe started humbly as a grocery store that also served food, and the place hasn't lost its humility. A favorite entrée is the pescado asado, a beautifully fresh tilapia fillet seasoned with cumin and grilled until crispy. Texans who appreciate chicken-fried steak will love the bistec empanisado, but the vaca frita is more exotic. Beef brisket is cooked and shredded, then fried. It looks a little plain on the plate, but the dish isn't about looks; it's about flavors and textures.