Les Ba’Get is working hard to be a different kind of casual Vietnamese restaurant. From the considered interior to the careful construction of its banh mi sandwiches, whose architecture delivers maximum flavor in every bite, the details matter here. Breakfast is served all day, and offers some of the menu’s best and most interesting bets. The haunting flavor of a pandan-infused waffle is the perfect foil for savory fish-sauce-marinated fried chicken with a beautifully crackling crust, though the kitchen is somewhat inconsistent in delivering the chicken without a few extra bittering moments in the fryer. The pork belly sandwich can be amazing or problematic, depending on whether or not the connective tissue has fully rendered, and the smoked brisket version is poised to be an iconic Houston sandwich, with just a bit of tweaking. Quibbles or not, you can tell the folks behind Les Ba’Get are invested in getting the details right, and they have enough of them nailed down to make this a compelling new entrant to an already excellent field.
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The banh mi: a sandwich whose very ubiquity in Houston might suggest that one is much like another, with only minor differences setting the good apart from the great. This is both true and not true, and the version at Les Ba’Get Vie...
Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 6 a.m. by Mai Pham
Les Ba’get, the new brick and mortar by the owners of the now-retired Les Ba’get gourmet food truck, is the contemporary Vietnamese restaurant that Houston has been waiting for. At just 1,450 square feet, it’s small, but you know th...