Palm on Westheimer (the cognoscenti don't say the "the") has a lot of special memories for Houstonians. When it opened in 1977, it epitomized the "anything goes" spirit of the oil boom. It's still a boisterous joint with big steaks, big Bordeaux and few inhibitions. The Houston restaurant's walls are covered in caricatures, just like the Manhattan original, and it's fun to see how many faces you know. Palm's USDA Prime New York strip is perhaps the tastiest steak in town. It's dark brown with hard and crispy edges; pink and dry along the sides, it turns juicier and redder toward the middle. It's chewier than a filet or rib eye, but the flavor is worth it.