The dingy innards of the old Kim Hung supermarket in the East End is the last place you'd expect to find barbecue, especially good barbecue. But Pearl Thompson has an East Texas pedigree, a custom-made Klose pit and plenty of pecan wood to back up her barbe-cue. The brisket can occasionally be dry (especially if Pearl is out catering that day), but the pork ribs and smoked chicken are great. Skip the sides and instead close out your meal with some peach cobbler.
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"We've been open since February 5," said Pearlie Thompson with a smile as she rang me up last Saturday afternoon. "But it's been kind of quiet." Thompson runs Pearl & Johnny B's BBQ, a little gem out of my fondest slow-smoked dreams...