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Pho-Nga Restaurant

Exceptional grilling distinguishes neat-as-a-pin Nga from its Little Saigon competitors. Inside the spring rolls' rice-paper wrappers, mild-mannered, room-temperature vermicelli snuggles next to marinated bits of chicken still hot from the grill; the contrast in tastes and temperatures is all good. Rice plates -- beds of you-know-what adorned with various grilled meats and slivers of vegetables -- pull off a similar feat. Roll those goodies in a piece of cool leaf lettuce, dip the assemblage in the sprightly fish sauce, and reflect on the joys of complexity.