The decor of this yellow-frame cafe just past the Intracoastal Waterway bridge to Galveston is basic bait camp, but the dining room is crammed with happy diners. The best of the appetizers is the retro oyster brochette wrapped in smoky bacon and basted in buttery brown meunière sauce. The fried seafood platter is good, but there are more imaginative contenders, like the charbroiled whole baby red snapper -- crisp, spicy, white and flaky. Just don't forget to bring a hefty appetite because the Red Snapper Inn doesn't skimp on its portions.
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Just past the San Luis Pass toll bridge that joins the western tip of Galveston Island to the mainland was a billboard for the Red Snapper Inn. The good news the sign signaled was that our long road trip along the grievously pothole...