Saltwater Grill

Most any time of the year, this stylish Strand-area restaurant is packed to the gills, so reservations are definitely recommended. Shiny stainless-steel buckets produce the menu items identified as "from the kettle," including a full-bodied gumbo, the island's best steamed mussels and a lighter version of shrimp scampi. As good as all of these are, the kitchen turns out some of its own wonders. Seafood catches change daily but are always reliable. A recent visit hooked tasty versions of grilled snapper, salmon and sea bass. This restaurant could hold its own anywhere. If it were in Houston, in fact, you would never be able to get a table.