At many Houston sushi restaurants, you are required to give your order to a waitperson without so much as a nod from the sushi man. But establishing a rapport with a real Japanese sushi chef is the only way to broaden your raw-fish horizons. Which is why this cozy little Japanese restaurant run by a personable sushi chef named Toda is something of a discovery. Don't miss chef Toda's unagi -- the sweet and salty eel and rice rolls are spectacular. You always want more, but they take a while to cook, so you better order four to begin with.
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Whenever my parents come to visit, I give them a verbal tour of notable restaurants and my favorite spots as we drive around town. "There's House of Pies," I'll say, "still under construction from that damn fire. Nara just opened in...
Thursday, September 12, 2002 at 4 a.m. by Robb Walsh
Chef Tatsumi Toda's secret unagi recipe involves a slow-cooked, sweetened black sake and soy sauce, but that's all I can get out of him. Freshwater eel (unagi) is usually broiled in a toaster oven before it's fixed to the rice with ...