At many Houston sushi restaurants, you are required to give your order to a waitperson without so much as a nod from the sushi man. But establishing a rapport with a real Japanese sushi chef is the only way to broaden your raw-fish horizons. Which is why this cozy little Japanese restaurant run by a personable sushi chef named Toda is something of a discovery. Don't miss chef Toda's unagi -- the sweet and salty eel and rice rolls are spectacular. You always want more, but they take a while to cook, so you better order four to begin with.