A cheerful red-and-white cafe tucked away in a Bellaire strip shopping center offers a thoughtfully heat-indexed menu. Standouts include the crispy crab meat and cream cheese rolls with a spicy-sweet raisin sauce, and the velvety tom kha soup: chicken chunks and enoki mushrooms swimming in coconut milk spiked with lime juice and lemongrass. Diners choose their own degree of heat for red or green Thai curries; on the one- to five-pepper scale, three will gently prickle your scalp.
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