Ula’s Mexican Restaurant and Cantina

Ula’s on Washington, the second outpost of a Missouri City favorite, feels a bit wedged into the old Catalan/Coppa spot, like it’s a surface treatment. The food follows suit, offering mostly mediocre spins on Tex­Mex classics, from oddly textured fajitas to cheese enchiladas with an oddly sweet and overly spiced gravy. The simple guacamole, interestingly meaty chile con queso, and finely rendered shrimp brochette are good choices, and the chicken enchiladas verdes is a surprisingly good example of the form. If you’re driving the western stretch of Washington and simply have to stop for Tex­Mex, Ula’s is almost good enough.

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