Pitmaster Adrian Handsborough's smoky, tender pork ribs are fall-off-the-bone amazing, but they've got nothing on his brisket. He's been selling at least 100 pounds a day of the stuff since opening Virgie's, his small, out-of-the-way barbecue shack in Westbranch in 2004. East Texas-style, his barbecue comes topped with a spicy-sweet sauce and is served up with sides of mustardy potato salad, tangy coleslaw and bacony green beans — all of it homemade.