10 Lobster Dishes to Try in Houston: No. 5, The Lobster Roll at Triniti

One of the many things that intrigues me about the Victorian era was how the general overabundance of shellfish meant foods like lobster were more fare for the hoi polloi than the aristocratic minority. This year, a bumper crop in the Northeast has once again made lobster cheaper for the masses. And with the lowered cost of bulk orders for restaurants, chefs are getting creative in their uses of this crustacean. Here are 10 Lobster Dishes to Try in Houston.

No. 5: The Lobster Roll at Triniti

UPDATE: This dish is available at lunchtime only.

I've said before that any fool can slap some lobster meat mixed with mayo and lemon juice on a toasted bun and call it a lobster roll. That's not what's going on at Triniti.

Triniti's take on this classic sandwich is predictably sophisticated, but not pompous. Rather than a buttered roll, Triniti foists its lobster on crunchy ciabatta. I usually prefer a soft bun with my lobster, but this choice of bread had its advantages. Not only does ciabatta's sturdier form better contain the sandwich filling, but its chewy, slightly sour dough has a lovely way of soaking up any excess sauces.

Let's be clear, however, that this lobster roll, unlike many others, is not a mayonnaise bomb. A tarragon aioli appropriately lubricates and enlivens the lobster meat, but the more forward flavors come from the root vegetable kimchi. This inventive addition transforms the conventionally mild lobster roll into a spicier, earthier sandwich: a refreshingly new interpretation of "surf and turf."

Check out the rest of our must-try lobster list:

10. Lobster omelet at Union Kitchen 9. Crispy lobster sandwich at Backstreet Cafe 8. Lobster macaroni & cheese at Kata Robata 7. Lobster mango salad at Smith & Wollensky 6. Lobster Tacos at Jonathan's The Rub

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Joanna O'Leary