100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes 2012: No. 85, Wild Boar and Crab Pizza at Boheme

This year leading up to our annual Best of Houston® issue, we're counting down our 100 favorite dishes in Houston. This list comprises our favorite dishes from the last year, dishes that are essential to Houston's cultural landscape and/or dishes that any visitor (or resident) should try at least once.

Boheme Cafe & Wine Bar never used to be the kind of place I'd head for food, even when I lived literally right behind the place on Hyde Park. Sangria? Yes. Beer? Yes. Slightly warm wine? Sometimes. Coffee? Also sometimes. Food? Never.

Things have changed as the little wine bar-cum-coffee shop has slowly expanded over the years, however. Not only has the beautiful back patio blossomed into one of Montrose's great oases, the menu has grown up as well. In keeping with its initial offerings of quasi-Mediterranean fare, the bulk of the menu is now made up of thin-crust pizzas served on lavash, an Armenian flatbread.

The toppings are where it really gets fun, though: In the increasingly typical Houston style, each pizza is a gleeful blend of different cuisines in one. On the innocuous-sounding barbacoa, you'll find Mexican shredded beef alongside Lebanese muhammara, Brazilian queijo prato and Mongolian chile oil. And on the wild boar and crab pizza, you'll find another intriguing mishmash.

Spicy wild boar sausage is mingled with flaky crab meat -- this isn't canned stuff, but the real fresh deal -- and more of that Brazilian cheese, as well as a Middle Eastern spice blend called za'atar that's redolent with sumac, and a citrusy barbecue sauce that sets the entire pizza off with a tart punch. It's spicy, briny, meaty and herbal all at once and somehow works despite its many moving parts.

The only bad thing about the pizzas here, in fact, is choosing which one to try first...

The list so far:

No. 100: Chili cheese mac at Jus' Mac No. 99: Texas turkey sandwich at Spec's No. 98: Custard at Petite Sweets No. 97: Caprichos mixtos at Taqueria Monterrey Chiquito No. 96: Pineapple-wasabi burger at Lankford Grocery No. 95: Farmer's MKT Pizza at Phoenicia's MKT Bar No. 94: Potatoes at Money Cat Brunch No. 93: Breakfast tacos at Sunrise Taquito No. 92: Hot dog at Tacos D.F. No. 91: Avocado gelato at Frozen Cafe No. 90: Chicken sandwich at JerryBuilt Homegrown Burgers No. 89: Beer-battered asparagus at Hearsay No. 88: Honey Badger omelet at Kraftsmen Cafe No. 87: Pastelitos de carne at El Jalapeño No. 86: Pancakes at Union Kitchen

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Katharine Shilcutt