100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes 2012: No. 93, Breakfast Tacos at Sunrise Taquito

This year leading up to our annual Best of Houston® issue, we're counting down our 100 favorite dishes in Houston. This list comprises our favorite dishes from the last year, dishes that are essential to Houston's cultural landscape and/or dishes that any visitor (or resident) should try at least once.

Although it often gets unfairly overlooked because of its location in a Shell filling station, Sunrise Taquitos is the real deal: Mexican madres and abuelitas bustle around the open kitchen each morning, dishing up plates of huevos rancheros with beans and homestyle potatoes or soft flour tortillas stuffed with chorizo and eggs.

If you're feeling extra-hungry, though, you can go ahead and order them both -- it's what I do on sunny weekend mornings -- and enjoy them on the side patio with a surprisingly pretty view of the trees that canopy down into Buffalo Bayou. The potatoes on the breakfast plates are a little bland, but come alive when covered with Sunrise Taquito's warm, mild red salsa.

The tacos themselves rarely need any dressing up, however. You can also order them with beans and/or cheese, but they don't even need that -- it's the fat, griddled tortillas (much fluffier and fatter than the norm, and approaching Chilosos-like levels of greatness) that make Sunrise's breakfast tacos the best. That, and the smiles from the women who fill them up and hand them over the counter to you.

The list so far:

No. 100: Chili cheese mac at Jus' Mac No. 99: Texas turkey sandwich at Spec's No. 98: Custard at Petite Sweets No. 97: Caprichos mixtos at Taqueria Monterrey Chiquito No. 96: Pineapple-wasabi burger at Lankford Grocery No. 95: Farmer's MKT Pizza at Phoenicia's MKT Bar No. 94: Potatoes at Money Cat Brunch

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Katharine Shilcutt