Phaedra Cook is eating her way through Houston and counting down her 100 favorite dishes of 2015. It's a collection of personal favorites that is also indicative of Houston dining. It's a scene where a vast range of dishes coexist: highbrow and lowbrow; local and international; cheap and expensive; modern cuisine and beloved tenets — and everything in between.
59 Diner doesn’t offer this particular combo on the menu, so you have to order each item a la carte. Assembly instructions: Use the hash browns as the base. Pile on the refried beans, layer the eggs over the top (order them in whatever style you prefer, fried or scrambled) and adorn the whole thing with Hugo’s Sauce.
If you’re avoiding carbs, skip the hash browns and enjoy a meal laden laden mostly with protein. If you’re really hungry, add a side of ham, bacon or sausage. Pretty much every breakfast dish at 59 Diner comes with pancakes or bread, so this is a great way to avoid that particular temptation.
59 Diner’s Hugo’s Sauce — a thick, chunky, extra-hot salsa — is fun in part because you never know how it’s going to be. Every location and every cook makes it a little differently and it varies from day to day even at one place. It’s a varying mixture of tomatoes, onions and jalapeños. Some days, it’s blazing hot and full of peppers and pepper seeds. Other days it’s well within tolerance levels for most people.
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The hash browns, if you get them, are notoriously variable, too. Some days, they're crispy and light and it's like every strand is fried to golden-brown perfection. Other days, they're fried in a patty and brown on the top and bottom. The former is far preferable.
Either way, it’s a great breakfast for under ten bucks and it's available day or night. I think 59 Diner should add this as an order-able combo plate on the menu.
The List of Top 100 Dishes of 2015 So Far:
No. 92, Shipley Do-Nuts Plain Glazed
No. 93, Housemade Bologney at Public Services Wine & Whisky
No. 94, Bo Luc Lac at Cheno's (formerly Chino's) Fast Food
No. 95, Combo #5 at Soto's Cantina
No. 96, Carnitas Salad At Chipotle
No. 97, Pickled Shrimp At Punk's Simple Southern Food
No. 98, Lobster Roll At Maine-Ly Sandwiches
No. 99, Chili-Cheese Coneys At JCI Grill
No. 100, Corned Beef Hash And Eggs At House Of Pies