^
Keep Houston Press Free
4

A Great Italian Wine List at Nundini

For an Italian wine lover like me, the wine list at Nundini Chef's Table Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar, the subject of this week's cafe review (I filled in for Katharine Shilcutt), is a dream come true.

It covers nearly every wine-growing region in Italy, and its prices are not just reasonable... they're fantastic.

And while you're not going to find the heavy hitters there (the "special occasion" wines that we reserve for birthdays, anniversaries, graduations, etc.), you will find a wondrous encyclopedia of native Italian grape varieties and appellation that chronicles the mosaic of aromas and flavors of the fair country.

In my review of the restaurant in this week's edition of the paper, I write about my disappointment with the food. Considering owner Giampaolo Nundini's legacy as one of the leading importers of Italian foods in Texas, I was surprised by the disconnect between the high quality of the ingredients and the poor execution of the dishes.

But the materia prima offers great promise: I loved the bresaola pizza, topped with mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, and thinly sliced air-dried beef from northern Italy. Whether reaching for a clean, crisp, bright Dolcetto from Alba (Piedmont) or a blend of Montepulciano and Nero di Troia from Castel del Monte (Apulia [Puglia]), I could spend a year marching through the wine regions of Italy and munching on the wide selection of pizzas at Nundini.

I probably won't take my wife Tracie P there for our anniversary in January. But Cousins Marty and Neil and I will surely be back to study Sangiovese on a Wednesday night while our wives are sipping Nebbiolo and nibbling truffles elsewhere.

I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Houston and help keep the future of Houston Press free.

The food at Nundini performed best when it was its simplest: Great ingredients, combined judiciously.

Click here for my review.


Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.

 

Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.