As a self-identified "foodie" and food writer, there's little excuse I can offer for never having visited Tony Mandola's during my seven-plus years in Houston. "Mistakes were made," as they say, and it was only a few days ago that my inaugural meal took place. Note, "inaugural," not initial, because plans are already in place for follow-up visits.
The expansive menu offerings at Tony Mandola's make it impossible to appreciate the restaurant's culinary versatility in just a single albeit long dinner. Although Tony Mandola's ostensibly specializes in Gulf Coast seafood, this proclamation is not by any means limiting when it comes to designing ways in which to showcase this type of regional protein.
An entire repast could be made out oysters, to which an entire section of the menu is dedicated. "Plain," freshly shucked gulf oysters emitted a lovely maritime aroma that led us to slurp two down immediately without thought of lemon or horseradish. The addition of these condiments added a nice spicy, citrus twang that cut through the brine. Mandola's baked oysters are not overstuffed and oversalted like those at some other area seafood restaurants (Pappas, can you hear me?); the Rockefeller oysters, for example, maintain a good balance of bivalve, breadcrumbs, and garlic butter that gives rise to a rich but not cloying flavor. Likewise, the Bienville version are lightly dressed in a parmesan sauce and dotted with pepper and bacon such that you never forget you're eating oysters and not some bizarro seafood nacho. A trio sampler, btw, is the best way to try the aforementioned varieties plus the Buccaneer style with crabmeat.
Another standout starter is the shrimp cocktail Vincente, a delightful Mexican riff on traditional dish whose traditionally effete flavors reflect its WASP origins. Mandola's puts the prawns directly in the cocktail sauce, which is spicier and heartier due to the inclusion of pico de gallo and avocado chunks. The concoction could easily be consumed with a spoon, but use the accompanying fried tortilla triangles and you'll enjoy a pleasant salty crunch with each bite.
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