Restaurant Reviews

Amalfi Doesn't Offer the High-End Dining Experience That Houstonians Are Right to Expect

It's a good thing that Amalfi's waiters serve wine expediently, because it's the only entertainment guests will get for 30 minutes. That's how long it takes to place a food order at dinnertime, and that's not a one-time problem. It happened on two different visits. As a result, the first nibbles didn't show up for an hour.

There are few dishes at Amalfi worth that interminable wait, and one was downright tragic. The terrina di fegato grasso al moscato, or foie gras terrine, has dashes of moscato wine gelatin and comes on unnaturally green pistachio brioche points. Foie is, of course, never cheap, and in this case, the triangular-shaped terrine was $22.

Foie is revered because when it is good, it's silky and mild with a delicate meaty flavor that is perhaps only a touch livery. When it's not fresh or of good quality, it is pungent. A good analogy is fish. When it's fresh, it doesn't smell fishy -- it smells of the sea.

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Phaedra Cook
Contact: Phaedra Cook