Back in Business at Kozy Kitchen

Keep Houston Press Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Houston and help keep the future of Houston Press free.

Driving down Lockwood the other day, I was delighted to see smoke billowing out of the chimney at Kozy Kitchen. I stuck my head in the back door and had a chat with owner Bill Taylor who was getting ready for the Saturday lunch rush. Taylor is also the guy who cooks the barbecue at the Continental Club on Main Street. He has been smoking meat for a long time.

He told me there was a fire February of 2007 and Kozy Kitchen was closed for part of last year. The historic 5th Ward barbecue joint was opened in the 1940s. It is the last of the famous African-American barbecue joints that thrived in the 5th Ward during the days of segregation. Simpson’s, the Lockwood Inn and two others were located nearby.

Kozy Kitchen used to be the only place in town that offered barbecued veal, but that tradition didn’t survive the fire. Taylor told me he only cooked brisket, ribs and hot links these days.

At lunch time I found a crowd lined up at a little window that opened into Taylor’s kitchen. Nobody was sitting down at the tables inside, they were all getting barbecue to go. “White people cut the fat off their brisket, but it’s the fat that makes the meat tender and moist,” a guy named Richard Chenevert told me while I stood in line. Chenevert was from Baytown. He said Kozy Kitchen was the only place he could find good hot links these days.

When my turn came, I ordered all three meats with slaw and potato salad and got a brown paper bag handed to me through the little window. The three-meat plate was just under $10. The thin-sliced brisket was outstanding and so were the big fat pork ribs. I cut away the casings and ate my hot links in the classic style--rolled up in some white bread. If you want to sample Kozy Kitchen’s stellar barbecue on a Saturday, I suggest you get there when the place opens at 11:30 a.m. I am betting it sells out fast. –

Robb Walsh

Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.


Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.