Banana Hammock

The camarones Hennessy en hamaca ($11.50) at Beso (2300 Westheimer, 713-523-2376) are a perfect example of chef Arturo Boada's fusion cuisine, which blends South American, Asian and European influences. Four giant shrimp are sautéed with hearts of palm, tomatoes and basil in a soy-ginger cream sauce, to which a goodly amount of cognac has been added. They float on a bed (or literally, a hammock -- hence the name) of ripe, sweet plantains, which add an interesting, soft texture, and are perfect for sopping up the incredible sauce.
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Paul Galvani