Food Nation

BB Donuts' Croissant Burger Might Be the Best Burger Value in Houston

In a strip mall on Westheimer near Taft, nestled between a dry cleaner and a Chartway Credit Union branch, you can find BB (or B&B) Donuts. Not to be confused with BB's, this eclectic breakfast and lunch spot offers a wide range of options, from kolaches and donuts, to the sublime breakfast croissants, to lunch options from hamburgers to Vietnamese sandwiches and fried rice.

I discovered BB Donuts in 2013 on a recommendation from a friend. We recently went there for lunch to have a croissant burger, which for my money is one of the best lunch deals in town.

The secret of BB Donuts' croissant burger lies in the croissant. These are the best I've had in town: They're more buttery and less flaky than a typical croissant, and that balance adds such a depth of flavor to the burger. The croissants alone make a visit to BB worthwhile, but the burger is well-made and tasty beyond that.

The meat patty isn't anything special to look at: If you're someone whose idea of the perfect burger starts with at least a half-pound of beef, you can stop right now. But the balance of meat and vegetables inside the croissant, for my taste, harkens back to the kind of burgers I used to get at the mom-and-pop burger shack growing up. It's tasty and flavorful enough, with the smaller beef patty ensuring the burger isn't too heavy or overwhelming. With the croissant bun itself being a little heavier than your typical hamburger bun, this actually helps the burger on the whole.

Competition to make the best burger around has heated up in Houston, with many restaurants offering gourmet burgers with high-quality ingredients and giant patties. These burgers are often extravagant and expensive, costing $10-$12 (or more), and occasionally are piled so high with unusual toppings or ingredients that they scarcely resemble a hamburger anymore. In that sense, BB Donuts' croissant burger is a throwback, both in construction and price: The croissant bun is the only unusual ingredient, and at $3.50, you don't have to feel self-indulgent for having one for lunch (or picking up a second one to share with someone who hasn't tried it before).

BB Donuts is open only until 2 p.m., so this is strictly a lunch-only option. If you're an early riser, though, the croissants start coming out of the oven at 5 a.m. on weekdays and 6 a.m. on weekends.

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Nath Pizzolatto